Mainstream Swiss brands like Breitling and Oris are now openly embracing lab-grown diamonds

The Silent Revolution in Swiss Watchmaking: A First-Hand Account of How Lab-Grown Diamonds Conquered the High-End Watch Industry

Over the past decade, as a buyer working with authorized dealers for European luxury brands, I have felt every subtle shift in market trends. From Versace's lavish garments to Hugo Boss's tailored suits, I thought I had witnessed every revolution. However, a recent upheaval occurring in the heart of Switzerland's most traditional and conservative watchmaking industry truly astounded me.

Just this month, a New York Times article confirmed a trend I first detected at last year's Baselworld: Mainstream Swiss brands like Breitling and Oris are now openly embracing lab-grown diamonds (LGDs). This isn't an experiment by niche brands; it's a directional statement from industry giants. As the Marketing Director at Kardias Fashion Group and a long-time diamond buyer, I want to provide a deep analysis of this historic shift from a first-hand perspective.

Why is the Traditional Watch Industry Finally Opening its Doors to Lab-Grown Diamonds?

H3: A Buyer's First-Hand Witness: From Rejection, Skepticism, to Acceptance

I recall back in 2012, when I was just starting in this industry, talking to a Swiss watch executive in a Geneva showroom about "synthetic gems." The look of mingled disdain and amusement on his face is still vivid in my memory. The industry consensus then was that only natural diamonds, formed deep within the earth over billions of years, were worthy of adorning "timeless" timepieces.

The turning point came in the last three to four years. I clearly remember private conversations with European distributors where the topic shifted from "should we use them" to "how should we use them" and "when." The driving force wasn't internal sentiment but cold, hard data from the end market and the values of a new generation of consumers. Our group's procurement data shows that young, affluent demographics are increasingly demanding sustainability, ethical sourcing, and price transparency.

The Official Brand Narrative vs. The Underlying Logic

Breitling's CEO, Mr. Georges Kern, publicly states they are embracing sustainability and technology. This is entirely correct, but from a buyer's perspective, the underlying logic is more complex:

1. Pricing Strategy & Market Expansion: Using LGDs significantly reduces the cost of producing a fully diamond-bezeled watch. This allows brands to reach a broader market of young professionals at a more competitive price point without sacrificing their profit margins.

2. Controllable Supply Chain: Compared to the geopolitical and supply instability of natural diamond mines, the LGD supply chain is more stable and predictable, which is crucial for a brand's long-term production planning.

3. A New Story to Tell: The traditional narrative of "eternity and rarity" is losing its appeal to Millennials and Gen Z. "Technology, innovation, and environmentalism" is a far more compelling new story.

Practical Comparison: Lab-Grown Diamond Watches vs. Natural Diamond Watches

As a buyer, my job isn't to take sides but to clearly analyze the pros and cons to inform purchasing decisions. Below is a comparison table based on first-hand market experience.

Winston's Buyer Memo: Choosing one isn't about right or wrong; it's a choice of values and consumption purpose. If you pursue the latest design, a fusion of technology, an eco-friendly consumption experience, and higher value for daily wear, an LGD watch is an excellent choice. If you see a watch as a legacy asset and a representation of traditional value, a natural diamond timepiece still holds an unshakable position.

Ultimate Consumer FAQ

1. Does a brand's use of lab-grown diamonds mean the overall quality of the watch has decreased?

Absolutely not. This is a critical misunderstanding. Brands like Breitling and Oris are simply choosing a different source for their diamond-setting material. The core value of a watch lies in its movement, design, assembly craftsmanship, historical heritage, and brand value. These brands are merely offering consumers a new material choice that aligns with contemporary values. The watch's water resistance, accuracy, finishing, and overall build quality still adhere to the brand's stringent standards. You are buying a Breitling first, and second, a Breitling that uses lab-grown diamonds.

2. How can I tell if my watch uses natural or lab-grown diamonds?

They are impossible to distinguish with the naked eye. Even professional gemologists require specialized equipment. All lab-grown diamonds are laser-inscribed on the girdle with a microscopic identification number and "Lab-Grown" and recorded on their certificate (e.g., IGI or GIA certificate). This is an industry standard for transparency. Reputable brands will also explicitly state this in their product descriptions.

3. Will lab-grown diamonds become cheaper as technology advances, causing my watch to depreciate significantly?

This is a very sharp question. Yes, the rough stone cost of LGDs has decreased over the past few years. However, for a high-end watch, the raw material cost of the diamonds is only one part of its final price. A much larger portion of the value comes from the brand's R&D, design, masterful setting craftsmanship, marketing, and retail experience. Even if diamond costs fall, the costs of these other components do not decrease proportionally. Therefore, a watch from a high-end brand will not depreciate like a pure commodity. Its value will increasingly be determined by brand equity and craftsmanship, not solely by material cost.

4. Does this mean all brands will use lab-grown diamonds in the future?

I believe the market will diversify. As noted in The New York Times article, top-tier brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe are highly unlikely to switch in the short term. Their core value proposition is "tradition, scarcity, heritage," which aligns perfectly with the narrative of natural diamonds. More future-facing, modern, and sustainability-focused brands (like Breitling, Oris, TAG Heuer) will actively embrace this change. The future market will offer richer choices to satisfy consumers with different values.

Conclusion: Embracing the Power of Choice

From my frontline perspective, the moves by Breitling and Oris are a strong signal that high-end watchmaking is becoming more diverse and inclusive. This is not a betrayal of tradition but a response to a new generation of consumers.

Ultimately, this gives us, as consumers, an unprecedented power of choice. We can choose the product that best represents "who we are" based on our values, budget, and aesthetics. This is undoubtedly progress.

Regardless of your choice, always purchase from reputable brands or retailers and insist on an international certification that clearly states the diamond's origin. If you want to learn more about lab-grown diamond technology and its application in jewelry, feel free to explore our featured articles. We also provide a detailed guide for choosing wedding rings.

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Author Bio

Winston Wu
Current Marketing Director at Kardias Fashion Group Limited. An experienced luxury brand buyer since 2012, he has long-term collaborations with authorized European dealers for brands such as Versace, Moschino, Hugo Boss, and Roberto Cavalli. With over a decade of first-hand market and product knowledge, he is a recognized diamond expert with deep and unique insights into global diamond market trends.

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are the author's personal opinions based on professional experience and are for informational purposes only. They do not constitute investment advice. The value of jewelry and watches is subject to market fluctuations; purchases should be considered consumer behavior rather than investments.

Co-posted by Luxury Boutique Madison Avenue

Publish Date: Sept 10, 2025
Update Date: Sept 10, 2025